Army Photos and a small ‘How I base’

Until Steven releases more, I believe the lizard man Army is done for the moment!

armyoverhead

This is probably the first ‘real’ army I have completed.  I have done small warbands, but this is the first army. That photo contains 18 40×20 bases of lizard man warriors (270 figures), 11 bases of Lizard Spears (165 figures), only six bases of lizard man archers (60 figures, I need more of these really), 4 bases of Triceratops (one of which has an uncompleted howdah out there), about 12 bases of lizard ogres (amounts vary, but about 26 figures),8 bases of ceratopsid warriors (80 figures), 10 bases of lizard man cav (40 figures), 6 anklyo ballista, some personalities, and two command stands.  Total is roughly 700 figures, probably a tad under that.  I need more Lizzies, Steven!  The elven army is probably twice this size and not close to complete 😛

jarjarsurveys

Jar Jar Looked upon his Legions, and it was good.

I’m just please as punch with this army.  The picture on the left above here is pretty much why I like 6mm.  Now that looks like an Army!  If anyone is in the Portland Area and wishes to challenge me, just let me know.  It all fits in a teeny little scrap booking box to boot!

armyinbox.jpg

I’m going to finish today with a couple of photos of what I used to base my figures.  For my fantasy figures I like to fill the bases  completely (I have a DBA project coming up that I think will be more scenic base orientated in the future, so stay tuned for that).  After some early experimentation this is the method I settled on.

basetut1

This shows all my materials.  I use 1.5mm litko bases, primarily 40x20mm.  I use a lot of that dick blicks burnt umber paint,  in this case I usually go about half PVA, and half paint, and then add some water.  Depending on temperature I may add some slo dri as well.  I quick note on PVA, one would think it would be cheaper to buy it in large quantities, but where I live anyway, Its actually cheaper to go to the dollar tree and buy tons of their small glue containers, go figure.

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I like the mixture quite thick as you can see here.  If it is fairly thick i find I get good adhesion right away so I can move the base a bit without dudes falling over (a huge PITA with individual 6mm figures)

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Once I have the base filled, I put it on my flocking plate, bury it in flock and leave it for the night, dust it off the next morning and we are good to go.  Nothing fancy, but gets the job done, and I can do it quickly.  I will typically do 10 or so bases at a shot (about 150 figures….)

Expect some more Pendragon mini pics soon, and the first painted units of a new army!

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Elves, Wild Elves, and cheap 6mm terrain ideas

Well, with my new projects my volume has not been as prolific as in the past, but I did still manager to finish my test stands of Wild Elves as well as a couple of command stands for the elves.

elfcommand

The elf command stands are made up of characters form the Woodland Alliance Command pack (from Microworld of course), with a few spear men thrown on.  I also.  Other than the two command stands, the rest of the characters from the command pack were individually based to attach to units later.  I also painted multiple flags, mostly with simile designs or different colors.

grouppaint

The wild elves (which are a bit difficult to see in these) were just a test, I still have another 6 or so stands to do.  I mostly wanted to see if they looked ok spread out, and with multi color outfits.  I think they work, I was going for a harlequin type look (though  obviously not as elaborate.)  The figures themselves are fantastic, with really dynamic poses (three of them, one in a handstand!).  They really look like a dervish of guys on the table, Im thinking about making some larger bases of them later to enhance the look.

Now that I have I have finished a decent number of figures, I can actually play some games now.  I have played several more games of Mighty Armies now, and as my base game I am pretty satisfied.  I am going to make some modifications I think, but over all I like it.  The biggest problem I have encountered so far is no terrain.  Im a cheap bastard when I can be, and I have come up with fairly serviceable cheapo options I think.  FIrst up hedges and walls.

wallhedgecomp wallsclose wallsnhedges

These were fairly easy to make, and probably the most elaborate of the terrain I have so far.  All of the terrain I have made so far is just mounted on cut up cereal boxes headed for recycling anyway (I just pre-re-cycled?).  For the hedges and most of the walls, I just cut up a greenie sponge you can pickup packs of at the dollar store.  I did try making a wall out of styrene (the back one in the last picture) that I think came out looking more like a well constructed wall rather than a pile of stones.

ballasting scrubby

The hedges were made with just a plain 1/4 inches thick strip of the sponge, I found that a bit thick so I cut that in half for the walls.  Then I just covered them in pva mixed with a bit of water and dark grey paint, slathered it on and dunked in either my woodland scenics foam, or for the walls fine ballast.  I then drybrushed the hedges with bright green, and the walls with two shades of light grey.  For the walls I did try different color washes (and one one a light brown dry brush) for some different looks as well.  Added some more foam to the walls and then painted the bases brown and they were done.

fields

Here we have some cheap fields I made. Just cereal box carboard again, this one with some rows painted on with a couple shades of brown.  These look pretty low rent, I will probably make some replacements with ballast and foam down the road, they work for now though.

rough

A little bit of a rocky area here.  For the bigger rocks I carved up some foam spacers I had grabbed out of a package, then mixed some ballast with some other grits I have and glued them all on with pva.  This one’s cereal box base warped a bit form all the glue, so next time I will probably try mod podge or wood glue and see if I can reduce that.  I painted the big rocks with some dark grey and a little dry brushing, and then the other stuff with some dark and light browns.  I think next time  might add a little static grass in there for some more color too.

pond

This one is my favorite.  Again just cereal box cardboard.  I glued some ballast around the outside, painted dark brown with some dry brushing (same with the little islands in the middle there.  I used some craft paints for the pond, making it a bit darker where the water was deeper.  I also added a bit of grass stuffs I have, and a few bits of turf foam for variety.

theheap

Last photo is just a shot of what I have left so far.  Left side starts with lizard men (mostly spear men, which ironically not eve in the picture), Woodland alliance (lots of eagles, centaurs, and some other stuff), a bunch of baccus egyptians with a ton (like 20) chariots from rapier and baccus, and then a micro world undead army to start (yay!).  I also have some baccus scots my GF got me quite a while ago, not sure what I’m going to do with those, as I don’t game the period, I think make a nice scenic base at some point.

As you can see I still have tons left to do.  I am still chugging along on space hulk and my new vikings project.  The wild elves take a lot of time with all the different outfits, so it will be a while before my next post again I suspect.  Fear not (cause I have TONS of readers :P) I shall return!  What with all the fantastic new releases Steve keeps making a MIcroworld, I have years of work still ahead of me :D.

6mm Painting Tutorial: Microworld Wood Elf Spearmen

It’s been a bit over a year now since I purchased my first 6mm miniature, and in that time I’ve painted roughly 1500 give or take of the little buggers.  That said, while I’m certainly no expert, I do have a bit of experience.  I’ve also noticed my painting method is a bit different than most, so with the public good in mind (and my own ego), I thought I would post my painting method, using my latest finished set of Wood Elf Spearmen as an example.

Initially I prime per one of my earlier posts, very thin gesso.  Often times I will wash with borwn or black ink as well, in this case though because of the bright colors, I did not put a wash on most of the figures. With the figures stuck with poster putty to milk/juice caps, I start blocking in colors.

elfpaint1 elfpaint2 For the hair I used multiple colors, mostly oranges and blonde colors.  I will normally start with the hardest to reach spots just as in 28mm painting, normally the torso.  As the faces are hidden under cowls on many of the spearmen, I elected to paint the skin first.  In this case I went way out on a limb and used VMC elf skintone.  Next up was old reaper master series Linen white.  I love this color (although it is the worst smelling paint in the world), I cant for the life of me repeat it with other paints,  It will be a dark day when I run out.  It is difficult to see in these smaller pictures (I left the pictures full size if clicked on) but I’m not worrying to much about being super exact.  You don’t want paint all over, but mostly what I’m worrying about at this point is making sure all the prominent points are saturated with color.

elfpaint4 elfpaint3Next I painted the cloaks P3 Meridius blue.  That mess of blue in the background is actually from painting tyranids.  I like to keep it old school, so next up is some Citadel/GW Spearstaff brown I’ve had since I was a kid.  Its still good (at 23+ years of age), and again a great color I don’t know how I will replace.

elfpaint5 elfpaint6The primary color for the elf part of the woodland faction has been the meridius blue color, but I didn’t want these guys to just be  a wall of teal, so i went with whit(ish) shields, using GW Ulthuan Grey.  Terrible name aside, its no longer generally available (although you might find it in the odd hobby shop), the exact color isnt important, I just wanted a bluish light color, not green/brown like the linen white I used. [Please note: after completing this post I realized that I totally screwed the order up here, and I had left just primer on the shields until after washing, putting grey on AFTER that.  So….there you go….back the the remaining post….] Next I painted the pants and boots Reaper Sandy Brown.  With some silver for the spear tip, you could stop here.  Honestly, everything I do beyond this is only even barely noticeable when you hold the things up to your face.  Microworld figures are so detailed I just cant keep myself from trying to make them look even better (Rapier and Baccus get the same treatment, I’m not biased).

elfpaint7For humanoid figures i normally use either GW Agraxx earthshade, or occasionally nuln oil, and wash the whole figure.  I wanted to keep my colors bright as possible for these guys though so I used Army painter Soft tone this time around.  Again, you could stop here and have a pretty good looking paintjob.  They come a bit dark, but the wash gives nice depth and covers up basically all but the most egregious of mistakes.  I elect to continue on and go back over all the base colors again, I don’t repaint the whole area, but basically place a highlight on everything (with the exception of hair).

Elfpaint8 elfpaint9I made one alteration this time around, using reaper golden blonde on the tunic highlights (the soft tone already gave the white a nice nutty tone i wanted to emphasize).  I didn’t wash the shields to keep the white color, but I did add a meridius blue stripe to all the shields in the end. I also wanted to put another highlight on the cloaks since the area is so prominent, and used P3s arcane blue (per their color system i think).  Don’t laugh, but on lizard men I put a third highlight 😛  The last step is to finish up with some GW Rune fang silver on the spear tip.

I was going to post some pics of my basing, but its frankly not very inspired, and this post is already a lot of words.  As mentioned I have lots of other projects going on, but I am currently working on some Microworld Wild Elves that I hope to top these guys with next and will post as soon as possible.